• Kasey Willis

Texture, texture, read all about it!

Let's talk about all the do's and dont's of texturizing, thinning and removing weight in haircutting!



It can be a scary thing when you sit in the chair to get your hair cut, maybe a little unsure of your decision and how the next few weeks will play out with your new cut. Maybe you debated for weeks or months over this decision, and now that your hair is almost finished being blow dried, and your new life is about to begin, your stylist pulls out these peculiar looking shears.... *but I thought we were finished cutting? I've already cut all the length that I want to lose... what is she doing? why do those look like fancy craft shears? I am not an art project, why am I sweating, oh my gosh, what have I done?*



This is a sick collection of top of the line Hatori Hanzo texturizing tools! Believe it or not, each one of these tools can be used in different situations to create a different result! The possibilities are endless!

Sound familiar? But don't panic! If your stylist is trained to use those "silly scissors" (as one of my clients calls them) then this can send your whole look into orbit! Precision cuts are great and have a place and a purpose. But if they are properly texturized with the clients hair texture, styling needs, and desired results in mind then, you absolutely don't want to skip this step!!


You may have been burned before by the infamous old school "thinning" methods but, let's talk about what should and shouldn't be happening in this "final hour".


First, the NO-NO's:


1. Deep cuts close to the scalp. This is the biggest culprit and something that is incorrectly taught and used. Mis-use of texturizing methods like this are what cause lots of people to fear "texturizing" and missing out on the glory that properly removing unnecessary weight in their hair cut can bring. The only time that I might ever create deep cuts, is if someone was desperate to lose some density in their hair and ONLY on the interior of the back section of their hair where no little pieces would pester them by poking out of a pony tail or presenting themselves as "fly-aways" waving around like antenna from your perfectly pressed finished style. The other exception would be short haircuts like men's cuts, pixies and super short layered styles for which the goal is for the hair to stand up or a create a "spiky" result.


2. Excessive use of "thinning shears." A little goes a long way. And the term "thinning" makes me cringe. I try not to use this term because the mis-use and poor execution of "thinning hair" has led people to believe that thinning shears will somehow permanently reduce their density which is just simply not true or possible. It is also a huge misconception that people with thick hair NEED their hair "thinned". Thick hair is beautiful and should be celebrated by removing weight in just the right places simply for the clients comfort, ease of styling, and desired look. "Thinning" has more to do with the techniques being used than the tool. "Thinning" techniques should never be used on fine hair with low density.


3. Using dull implements. Using sharp implements is as important as knowing how to use them. If shears are dull it reduces their effectiveness. This includes cutting shears, thinning/ texture shears and even razors. For stylists who use safety razors for cutting, it may take multiple razor blade changes to effectively perform one haircut just to insure a sharp cut that doesn't rip or tear the hair.



Check this out! Believe it or not, the length of the left and right sides of this cut are EXACTLY the same. The difference is that the right side has been "texturized" and the left side has not. This picture illustrates what great methods of "weight removal" can do. Can you see how the left side seems bulky and stiff and how the right side appears to have more movement and manageability. It looks as if you can easily just run your fingers through it!


Now, The good stuff. (aka the DO's):


1. Deep parallel point cutting. This is the use of cutting shears to make deep cuts from the ends of the hair up. This will release the ends to not lay so bulky and make the hair have too much width at the bottom. It can also help to create movement and help the ends of the hair to not clump up together so that brushing and styling is SO MUCH EASIER!!


2. Removing weight a few inches away from the scalp. The distance away from the scalp is different for every hair type and the condition of the hair. For most situations anything shorter than four inches from the scalp, I would not recommend. Why? Because this is a danger zone for creating fly aways that will be troublesome to grow out and hair that short is not strong enough to support heavier lengths of hair if the goal is to create volume in different areas. UNLESS, you have a pixie length cut or a cut that has super short layers or super short hair. Obviously, if you have super short hair, then, texturizing will require shorter cuts that are proportionate to the cut. If you have longer hair, focus on removing weight in the mid-lengths to ends.


3. Multiple texturizing techniques. *But didn't you say, less is more?* Why, yes I did! But I meant that in relation to how much hair is actually removed. However, I highly recommend some diversity in techniques to remove weight! There are SO MANY techniques that can be used to remove weight! Building a long term relationship with a stylist that you can trust, can help you to identify which techniques are best for you and where you need weight removed the most in order to achieve your goals.


I realize that this is a discussion about texturizing in it's simplest form and that there is still so much that can be said on this topic! So let's continue the conversation! Share your questions and maybe some encouraging experiences that you have had with texturizing techniques! I would love to help you sift through confusion to figure out what is best for you or hear about how a good experience turned things around for you! Share your comments below or on my instagram page! And if you live in the Houston area and need some help with your hair goals, shoot me an email or book online!

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